Some are Italian, others modern. But new arrival Primo is one of the few which strike the balance. Rod McPhee met owner Claudio Modena.

He came to Britain in 1986 when he was barely out of his teens. Not surprisingly Claudio Modena, now 42, didn't leave behind the elite culinary world of Rimini and Bologna to nurture his restaurateur skills in Leeds.

"There was nothing here then" he laughs "There wasn't much in the way of a social scene at all and if you wanted anything like bread or cheese you could hardly get anything that was French or Italian or Spanish.

"I came here to learn English. I already spoke French and German so I came here to understand the language and I met my future wife within about three weeks and she taught me.

"It wasn't easy at first and since we were at the start of the relationship we had to rely a lot on body language. She was Scottish so now I tend to understand Scottish people better than the English, which is ironic."

But once he had got a hang of the native tongue Modena did start to develop himself on what limited dining scene there was in the city.

He said: "It's hard to describe just how much Leeds has moved on since the 1980s and 1990s, the difference is just incredible in terms of restaurants as well as bars and cafes.

"The changes even over the last five years have been massive – but in terms of the dining scene I definitely think there is still room for improvement."

Modena's Leeds career began at La Terrace on Greek Street and 22 years later he's just opened his first solo venture in the leisure and residential development West Point.

Overlooking Whitehall Road, Primo is a rather lavish affair made up of dark leather, polished granite, mirrors, crystal chandeliers complemented by a rather feminine dash of bright wallpaper. The overall effect is somehow both outlandish and conservative.

Modena said: "We spent quiet a lot of time and effort on the interior because in the modern location we're in we had to create something that fits in AND stands out.

"We did months and months of research and in the end I got a lot of inspiration from a visit to a restaurant on Madison Avenue in New York actually and brought those ideas back.

"People now expect a certain look and atmosphere and though there are Italian touches we wanted something that was much more fitting with the contemporary surroundings of the building and the streets around it."

The interior also reflects the mixed menu which combines classics with some more innovative twists.

"You have your basics and then it's like a cocktail, you add bits and take some away," said Modeno. "Even though it's not strictly Italian we'll carry steak on the menu because British people like steak.

"Then at the other end of the spectrum we'll do contemporary versions of authentic Italian like, for example, our parmesan risotto with ragu figs."

But does Leeds really needs another Italian restaurant? Aren't we already saturated in places to gorge on pizza and pasta?

"Well, it depends on whether they are real Italian restaurants" he said. "Obviously there are one or two which are established and wholly Italian.

"But others give you that impression even though they may not have many Italians actually working there, which goes a long way if you're to understand the food.

"Something like 80 per cent of my staff here are Italian and we don't have anything pretending to be authentic which isn't. For example I've never seen garlic mushrooms on a menu back home, but you'll see it in some supposedly 'Italian restaurants' here.

"Besides we aren't just about pizza and pasta, there is a lot more to the cuisine than that, and what I try and do here is a little bit different to other places.

"There may be lots of other restaurants in the city centre but they don't have that personal touch and I like the idea of being a bit of a host at Primo.

"I know a lot of the people who come here and I'm getting to know the names and faces of new customers too. That's important, I want people to feel like they're coming home for dinner not just going somewhere to get something to eat."

Even given the special connection he's nurturing on the local dining scene Modena is more than aware that the leisure industry is going through tough times.

He said: "All sectors are experiencing problems at the moment but we're fairly confident not just in Leeds but in the location we've chosen.

"We're right here in the middle of the new 'west end' where, as well as the existing apartments around us, flats are going up all the time.

"Then there's the offices by the riverside and Lumiere which is being built right on our doorstep so we feel this is a perfect location for us.

"Everyone is suffering, but quality will always survive."

Call Primo on 0113 2448443 or visit www.primo-ristorante.co.uk