We've managed to find part of the package but the sandy shores are rain soaked pavements and the scenery is Leeds railway station.

Not the most stunning of settings but it's worth it for the fabulous food Loch Fyne in City Square has to offer.

I'm not a big fan of chain food restaurants but I highly recommend this spot to seafood lovers. The food is 'melt-in-your- mouth' gorgeous and the service is second to none.

We headed to the restaurant, based in the former Post Office building, on a Sunday night when the rain clouds were looming and the al fresco dining space was empty.

Yet most indoor tables were filled and we were greeted by service with a smile.

The restaurant is quite neutral inside with whitewashed walls and pale wood but it's fairly spacious, warm and friendly. This is a spot for relaxed dining where you wouldn't look out of place in either a pair of jeans or a suit.

We opted for a bottle of crisp, fresh South African Pinotage Rose – Laibach – (£21) which was the perfect companion for the seafood yet to come.

We were invited to take a table by the bar or outside while we chilled out with a glass of the vino and concentrated on the menu.

While the wine list is as long as your arm, with an excellent variety on offer, the food menu is a little shorter.

From oysters (£1.50 each) to a seafood platter brimming with every type of shellfish (up to £44), to Goan fish curry (£12) and smoked fish pie (£10) the offerings are varied.

My dining partner opted for a oysters to start with which came in a quaint bucket filled with ice (£3) accompanied by chilli and coriander dressing, lemon wedges, shallot vinegar and Tabasco sauce.

We then went for shellfish marinières with saffron aioli (£9) to share as a starter. This dish was truly special. The mussels – usually miniscule – were huge and the creamy, the light sauce was divine. Staff also brought a basket of fresh breads which were perfect for soaking up every last drop – if you can manage it.

The only minus point was that, although there were only a few of them, most of the clams in the dish were sealed and therefore inedible.
Our other starter was salt and pepper Cornish squid with chili and coriander dressing (£7).

These had a real kick and were slightly too hot for me but the squid was dished up in two slabs covered in breadcrumbs, making for a real meaty appetiser.

The sauce was set around the side so the fish could be devoured without the spicy sauce if wanted.

For the main, my partner went for the delicious Goan fish curry. Light, mild but with a kick, the curry came with chunks of fish and some rice on the side. The dish was very authentic.

Loch Fyne seems to pride itself on its award-winning smoked salmon which is described as being smoked over oak chips from old whisky casks.

That was enough to get me interested. So I decided to sample one of their dishes and went for Loch Fyne Ashet – Bradan Rost, Bradan Orach, classic smoked organic salmon (Starter £7 Main £12).

The Bradan Orach is a traditional strongly smoked salmon and Bradan Rost (roasted salmon) is an inch-thick fillet.

If you love this type of fish you won't be disappointed. I highly recommend it – but you do need a side order.

The plate comes loaded with slices of mouthwatering smoked salmon along with chunks of Bradan Rost. It's succulent and tangy, a perfect light but filling main meal and goes perfectly with a side order of mixed salad (£3.50).

Much of the fish on the menu is from Loch Fyne on the West Coast of Scotland, bringing a true taste of seafood to inner city Leeds. But you could easily imagine that this restaurant is actually by the sea, as everything is so fresh.

To round off this excellent meal, we went for a sumptuous sticky toffee pudding (£3.50). A proper English desert and one that was guaranteed to fill to the brim.

On top of the fine food, the service was the icing on the cake. Staff were prompt, friendly and swift, without rushing us off the table.

Although there are a few non-fish dishes on offer (there are only three; sirloin steak, sausages or casserole) this is a venue geared up for seafood lovers and I can highly recommend it. The food is mouthwatering, delicious and good value for money.


FACTFILE

Loch Fyne, The Old Post Office, City Square, Leeds.
Tel: 0113 391 7550
Email: leeds@lochfyne.net
Website: www.lochfyne.com
Opening times: Mon to Fri: 9am-10pm; Sat: 9am-10:30pm; Sun: 10am-10pm
star rating

FOOD ****
VALUE ****
ATMOSPHERE ***
SERVICE *****