Sandwiched between the A64 York Road and the A58 Wetherby Road, this former pub is something of a discovery.

Who would have thought that you could drive for 10 minutes from the city centre and be amongst rolling fields being grazed by sheep and looking at a skyline made of trees and hedgerows instead of concrete?
Well, you can. And, if you will take my advice, you should.

It had been recommended to Oliver by a friend – always the best form of advertising – and it didn't disappoint.

The Beehive is like a friendly village pub, but the food is a cut or two above your average bistro.

We were made welcome from the off, the staff were friendly and approachable, which makes such a pleasant change, as there are a number of renowned 'foody' haunts in Leeds which are let down in this department. Besides, where good service is found, it ought to be applauded.

The restaurant is split into a number of separate dining areas, each of which opens onto the bar. There are even tables outside, where you can fully appreciate the view and listen to the sheep going 'baa' in the field opposite. How utterly joyful!

The Beehive offers a small menu but this is not to its detriment. By keeping things simple, they have managed to achieve food of a superior quality.

The à la carte menu offers starters such as pea and mint soup with crème freche (£3.95), duck spring rolls with cucumber salad (£6.25) and Caesar salad (£4.50), followed by mains such as grilled rib-eye steak with field mushroom, roast tomato, fat chips with béarnaise sauce (£16.25) and roast breast of chicken 'nicoise' (£10.95).

With offerings like this, The Beehive has managed to create a menu which will not only appeal to an affluent clientele living in Thorner but also to those people from the city who want to try a change of view without breaking the bank or spending hours in the car.

While there are plenty of stock-in-trade options for non-fussy diners, there is also enough variety to excite more adventurous patrons.

There is also a 'Two for £10' menu which offers a range of starters, including smoked mackerel pate and prawn; and tomato salad with basil and mustard cress mayonnaise; and mains to suit most palates – grilled rump steak and grilled polenta with asparagus and field mushrooms being just two dishes on offer. There's also a decent wine list with bottles ranging from just over a tenner to just over £30.

The Beehive has also recently begun opening for lunch – offering the '2 for £10' menu – and will take bookings for Sunday dinner, so in terms of menus, opening times and service, they aren't doing much wrong.
We ordered from the à la carte menu.

I started with a cheddar cheese and spinach soufflé, which was delicious, whilst my dining partner went with grilled king prawns with garlic and chilli butter, which was good but perhaps needed a touch more garlic. Both dishes cost £5.75.

For my main course I had fishcakes with chips, watercress and tartar sauce (£8.75) and discovered a dish so more-ish I would have licked the plate clean if I'd been sitting at home in front of the telly.

My partner's confit leg of duck with brandied cherries and gratin dauphinoise (sliced potato and melted cheese in a stack) was £12.75 and in my opinion was good value for money.

The potato part of the dish was crisp yet light and fluffy and melted in the mouth and the brandy-soaked cherries went fabulously with the duck – this is a dish I will definitely attempt to add to my own repetoir.

To finish, my partner ordered profiteroles with pistachio ice cream and chocolate sauce (£5.00), which were a delight, and I ordered strawberry and lemon curd shortbread tart (£4.50).

Both desserts were light, refreshing and delicious. It's sometimes a dilemma as to whether to order a dessert or not, but these were puddings of the best sort and just too appetising to ignore.

They left our appetites totally sated and we were more than pleased that we had made the choice to go for the third course.

In total, including pre-meal drinks and coffees, our bill came to £43.70, though there was the now all-too-common 10 per cent 'discretionary' service charge added to that. This growing habit of 'opt-out' tipping is unnecessary at places like The Beehive, which boasts a well-practised, yet relaxed service and excellent food.

FACTFILE
The Beehive, Leeds Road, Thorner, LS14 3DE
Tel: 0113 201 7171
Email: bookings@thebeehivethorner.com
Opening times: New lunch menu Monday to Saturday noon-2.30pm; Sunday bookings noon-3pm; evening meals every night from 5.30pm-late, last booking around 9.30pm.

STAR RATING
FOOD 4/5
VALUE 4/5
ATMOSPHERE 4/5
SERVICE 4/5

Click here for more.