CHILLI is not a flavour you often associate with ice cream.
Even in the days of the "molecular gastronomy" extolled by Heston Blumenthal - and Leeds' own Anthony Flinn - chilli ice cream is not a common proposition on most restaurant menus.

It's even less likely to crop up outside of trendy Leeds city centre, and certainly not in a gastropub in one of the well-heeled villages on the outskirts of the city.

But there it is, on the starter menu at the White Hart in Pool-in-Wharfedale.

This pretty village is often traffic-clogged, being en route to Harrogate and other parts of North Yorkshire.

It's also got a fair selection of boozers, including the newly reopened Dyneley Arms at the top of the Pool Bank.

But it was the White Hart to which Oliver was headed, a venue which every time we'd gone round the roundabout outside, had prompted the comment "that looks nice, we should try it".

From the outside, acres of light wood and comfy leather sofas can be spied. This isn't your usual pub decor.

Inside the multi-roomed venue has clearly had a major makeover. Most of the rooms were dedicated to dining with big wooden tables in the light, airy spaces.

Sadly most of these rooms were full when we dropped in for an impromptu Saturday lunch - clearly a popular place.

Instead we were led through the main bar, past those squashy sofas, and into a darker room at one end. It was more like a snug - in fact we were a bit too snug to the neighbouring table - as it featured banquette seating along one wall.

Pleasant as it was, the room would've been more suited to a cosy evening meal than a vaguely sunny Saturday. Still, it was busy so we stayed put and perused the menu.

It began with sharing plates, taking in salads, pasta, grills and, cryptically, a section called 'stove'.

Though other pubs are owned by the same firm, this was a cut above your usual pub grub.

Among the starters were pan-fried pigeon breast, pancetta and wild mushrooms (£5.50), scallops of the day and Grey Goose cured salmon with lime creme fraiche (£6).

Also there was the aforementioned chilli ice cream, which was actually paired with melon and feta (£5.50).

I couldn't resist this unusual combination. Would the ice cream really be sweet and creamy, or was it a posh way to describe something else?
My dining partner decided to be more conventional and went for the roasted mushrooms, Chablis cream and garlic croutons (£5.50).

Food order taken by our efficient waitress, we'd not long been nursing our drinks before the starters arrived.

Both were extremely generous portions - the mushrooms tumbled off their crouton and were almost dwarved by a pile of rocket. Definitely hearty fare.

Despite having polished off the bread basket earlier, my dining partner eagerly tackled the dish which he deemed very tasty.

And so to the chilli ice cream.

It arrived on top of a mound of thin melon slices from several varieties of the fruit, all perfectly ripe. The single scoop of peach-coloured ice speckled with red chilli flecks was topped by large pieces of feta.

Of course I tried the ice cream first. It was indeed sweet and creamy and thankfully the chilli kick was a delicate tickle to the palate rather than an elbow to the throat.

Tried with the melon and the feta too, it was a pleasant combination of salty cheese, sweet melon and spicy chilli. An unusual and grown-up take on the classic proscuitto with melon, it was a success.

The only complaint, though not a downside for everyone, was that the portion was so big as to overface. Two-thirds or even half as much would've sufficed.

For mains it was an old favourite for me.

The grill section featured lamb, salmon and steak all served with frites and various sauces. Mine was the ribeye with bearnaise sauce (£15.50), which did exactly what it said on the tin. Reasonable steak, chunky chips and creamy sauce added up to a good bistro dish.
But my companion made the standout choice with the market fish of the day, a whole plaice (£14).

The huge fish came simply with new potatoes and a buttery, lemony sauce. This was a classic combination done well and he polished it all off.

Other options included two varieties of spit roast chicken, a giant chicken kiev we spied at another table and a burger. Venison and seabass were options for the slightly more adventurous.

Most mains came with an accompaniment, but more veg or starches - as the menu describes them - were extra. Though we didn't need them, these could really bump up the prices.

After the large portions, pudding was an impossibility, though of course we checked out the menu. They sounded nice but nothing out of the ordinary.

However the drinks menu, particularly for non-alcoholic options, did score highly. We didn't see it at first but later tried a pink lemonade with cranberry and an LLB - lemon, lime and bitters. My other half didn't know what bitters tasted like beforehand but was a fan afterwards.

With one peppermint tea and other drinks, our bill was £49.70.
A sizeable cost for lunch but not overly expensive for a special meal with family or friends, which many other diners seemed to be enjoying.
The White Hart is a decent gastropub offering standard bistro food, done well. It's just the chilli ice cream that gives it that extra kick.


The White Hart
Main Street, Pool in Wharfedale, Leeds, LS21 1LH
0113 203 7862
Food served until 10pm Monday to Thursday and until 10.30pm Friday and Saturday. Restaurant is open until 9.30pm on Sunday.

FOOD 3 out of 5
VALUE 3 out of 5
ATMOSPHERE 3 out of 5
SERVICE 3 out of 5